How to Care for Naturally Dyed & Block-Printed Fabric (So It Doesn't Fade)

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We've been there. You bought the fabric because it's gorgeous - who could blame you - but you didn't understand what you were working with. Popped it in the wash and... AHH! Dye everywhere, colours bleeding onto everything else, and worse, it's faded.

It won't happen again though. Once you've read this, you'll know exactly which mistakes to avoid, and how to wash naturally dyed fabric without losing the colour you fell for in the first place.

 

The Secret to Colour that Lasts

Here's the thing nobody tells you when you fall in love with naturally dyed and block-printed fabrics: they need to be handled with (a little) more care, than your average cotton fabric. Think of it like a sourdough starter, it needs a little bit of attention but it rewards you for it in the end.

Good to know: Natural Dye doesn't fully bond with fibres the way synthetic dye does.

It sits a little closer to the surface. So while your fabric is gorgeous (that's the whole point), it's also a little more sensitive to heat, harsh detergents and sunlight than you'd expect.

The good news? Once you know its quirks, caring for it is genuinely easy.

 

 

How to Wash Naturally Dyed Fabric (The First Time)

The first couple of washes for your fabric are the most important. When you receive your fabric and go to pre-wash, here are the best recommendations:

Pop the fabric in the washing machine - on its own - on a hand wash/gentle setting with a handful of salt (straight into the drum).

The temperate should always be a cold wash (30°C or below) and ONLY put gentle, colour-safe detergents with the wash. Even better, skip the detergents altogether on the first wash to let the salt do it's thing.

Be sure to pop it onto a gentle spin (400 or less) to avoid stressing out the fabric too much.

Notice a little colour lifting into the water? Don't panic, that is completely normal. It's excess dye finding its way out, not a sign that anything's gone wrong.

Repeat this for the next couple of washes: I typically add in the salt for around 2-3 washes (just to be on the safe side), I personally use Ecover non-bio laundry detergent as it's soft on clothes and doesn't contain harsh toxic chemicals. If you're looking to keep your fabrics at their best, ditch the softener entirely. Trust me, it is the best thing you can do for your clothes and your skin.

I've sewn the fabric into something after one wash, with no dye issues. However I would keep the fabric/garment on its own in the machine, for at least 3 washes - especially with the salt. By the fourth wash, I cross my fingers and hope the laundry turns out okay... and so far I've had no issues.

The Everyday Wash Routine

Once the fabric is settled after the pre-washes and been sewn into something beautiful, caring for it becomes second nature. Here's what "normal" washing looks like from here on:

• • Cold Water Always (30°C or below)
  • A gentle or eco detergent (skip the softener)
  • Turn the fabric inside out before washing, this protects the printed surface.
  • Wash with similar colours, not the whole laundry basket.
  • Hand washing is kinder - if you have the time - but a gentle machine cycle if fine too.
  • Always keep it on a low spin.

 

Air it Out, Not Fry Out

So how are we drying the fabric? "Surely there isn't a special way to do that too!" I hear you, I do. But yes, drying is as crucial as washing when it comes to keeping your fabric beautiful.

First up, do not chuck it into a tumble dryer. Heat and tumbling are exactly what cause the ink or dye to break down faster, so we skip this step entirely.

Hopefully the low spin cycle has helped reduce the excess water, however if you find it still needing a little more; you can squeeze out the excess (no wringing or twisting, that could damage the print) before choosing where to dry it. You've got two options:

1. Lay your fabric flat to dry. 

If you're short on space, or have an airer with a lot of "pressure" points, it might be best to skip this one and try option 2.

What are pressure points? Lets say you have an airer with four structural corners. When you drape your fabric over, those four corners push into your fabric. As your fabric dries, the fibres shrink which leads to imprinted points where the fabric dried around those corners. Sometime they can be ironed out but depending on the fabric (especially with knits) it can leave a permanent mark on the print/or colour. This is why it's best to lay the fabric flat with as little pressure points.

2.  Hang dry it from the selvedge edge.

Never fold your fabric over the washing line, always hang it from the edges instead. So that the pegs are the only pressure points it touches.

The pressure of the washing line can also cause that imprinting on your fabric as the fibres shrink; causing a folded line in your fabric damaging the pattern and colour.

One more thing: dry it out of direct sunlight. UV rays fade natural colour fast, even faster than a wash can.

The Right Way to Press

Ironing isn't complicated here, just a couple of rules to protect the print.

Iron on the reverse side of the fabric, never directly on the printed surface.
If you're working with something already sewn and cannot easily flip it, lay a thing cotton or muslin cloth over the print instead to act as a barrier.

Keep the fabric slightly damp rather than bone dry, this makes the wrinkles easier to release. Also use a medium heat rather than full blast (even though high usually is for cotton) as we're looking after the print. When it doubt, go cooler. You can always go over it again, but scorched dye doesn't repair itself.

Tucked Away, Kept Beautiful

Whether you're storing your fabric in the stash, or you're finished garment; it's best to store it well and it matters more than you might think.

1. 1. Never store damp fabric, even a little dampness can lead to mildew or musty smells that are hard to shift later.
   2. Fold it loosely rather than tightly, tight folders held over time can create permanent crease lines in the print.
   3. Skip plastic bags, they trap moisture and don't let the fabric breathe. If you wish to store in any bags, choose a cotton bag, pillowcase or breathable box. If moths are a worry, tuck in a lavender sachet, it keeps things fresh and doubles a natural deterrent.
   4. Always keep fabrics out of direct sunlight whilst it's stored. A cupboard or drawer is always the safer bet - I've learnt the hard way on this one.

 

Spills Happen

Act fast: don't rub, and reach for cold water first.

• • Blot the stain straight away, rubbing pushes it deeper and can disturb the dye.
  • Cold water only, hot water sets strains in.
  • Try a gentle stain remover, but test it on a hidden area first.
  • For stubborn marks, soak in cold water with a mild detergent before washing a normal.

 

Fading Isn't Failing

Remember back at the start, when we said natural dye sits a little closer to the surface, and that's what makes it gorgeous, but also delicate?

Over time the dye will fade, with each wash the colour will soften and the print will mellow; but you will get a little more character. It's a gentle change, and proof that the fibres are natural and the dye is real.

This is where that comes full circle. A little fading over time isn't a fault, and it's not a sign you've done something wrong, and definitely not a reason to panic. It's what naturally dyed and block printed fabric does.

So if you've followed everything above and you still notice a little softening over time? Don't worry, it's perfectly natural.

 

Ready to Bring Some Home?

Now that you know how to keep them looking their best, why not add a piece (or three) to your fabric library?

Our Indian Block Print Fabrics are block-printed using traditional techniques, and certified with OEKO-TEX, to ensure no traces of harsh toxic chemicals sit in the fabric.

Take a look at the beautiful colours and patterns available.